First tandem FPV session with Scott Klein!
I’ve been flying ‘First Person View’ (FPV) for about 1 year now. FPV takes place when you control a vehicle remotely by watching a live video feed from a camera on the vehicle. It’s a fucking blast.
My ‘for science’ (for-fun) goal with FPV is to experiment with long range, but generally I want to fly reliable distances with very compact gear. I don’t want a huge ground station. I want to backpack/ski into the backcountry with a flying robot and some video goggles — the lighter the gear the better. For geeks looking to get into FPV, these are my key takeaways after using 5.8GHz for FPV over the past year.
1. 5.8GHz VS other frequencies?
There are three popular frequencies for transmitting analog FPV video: 5.8GHz, 2.4GHz, and 1.3GHz (I left out 900MHz because I haven’t seen many people using that today, though it is used). I’ve only been able to test 5.8GHz, so keep that bias in mind.
I’ve had GREAT and HORRIBLE results with 5.8GHz based on the gear used, but by now I’ve concluded that it IS POSSIBLE to get amazing FPV results with 5.8 — you just need to do it right.
Advantages of 5.8GHz:
- Very small antenna size — compact and easy to travel with
- No interference issues with any radio control system (2.4GHz and 433MHz are the popular control frequencies)
- Great video quality
Disadvantages of 5.8GHz:
- Poor obstacle penetration — hard to go around trees and buildings
- Shorter range compared to other frequencies without time invested tweaking (testing channels and antennas)
1.3GHz is a great frequency for video because of its robustness. I have friends that have reported 3+ miles of clear video range using 1.3GHz in crowded areas with lots of radio frequency noise. I’ve read posts and seen videos of people getting 10-20 mile range in open sky. Wow!
I tried using 1.3GHz a few months ago and ended up going back to 5.8GHz. The 1.3GHz video transmitter I tested drowned out my 2.4GHz RC control, and my control range dropped significantly. I didn’t want to worry about losing control of my copter in the air, so I decided to keep tweaking my 5.8GHz system and then upgrade to 1.3GHz or 2.4GHz after changing my control frequency. The big downside to 1.3GHz is the size of the antennas. They’re HUGE!
2.4GHz summary/comparison (what I’ve read):
The infamous Team Black Sheep seems to swear by 2.4GHz for FPV, which is a huge endorsement. TBS videos are what got me into FPV, so I am always considering switching to 2.4GHz. 2.4GHz has much better object penetration than 5.8, so it’s easier to fly behind trees, buildings, mountains, etc.
The problem with 2.4GHz for video is that most RC Transmitters use 2.4GHz for control. This means you have to use a different frequency for control if you want to use 2.4GHz for video. UHF (433MHz) is the most popular long-range control frequency. It just costs time and money to switch. 2.4GHz antennas are slightly bigger than 5.8GHz, but it’s probably worth that for the instant range gain and obstacle penetration. However, 2.4GHz is used for a lot of different things in the industrial world (Wifi and wireless home telephones are some examples) so be careful using 2.4GHz for video in populated areas.
I love 5.8GHz purely for its convenience and quality. I really like maximizing efficiency. I just bought an antenna that should get me 4-5km of video range with 5.8GHz in open skies. However, I’ll probably bite the bullet and upgrade to 2.4GHz or 1.3GHz in the future for doing longer-range flights with more obstacles.
2. What radio gear to use?
My foray into FPV started with this cheap SkyZone transmitter and receiver set from HobbyKing. I used a 7″ LCD as my FPV monitor and a Boscam HD19 as my flight camera. The setup was a cheap introduction to FPV, but it was unreliable. Lots of radio interference made it hard for me to fly from the FPV view alone.
Today I use a FatShark 5.8GHz 250mW video transmitter with a SpiroNet Circular Polarized antenna to send video from my GoPro Hero 3 Black down to a pair of FatShark Dominator goggles with a Team Black Sheep 5.8GHz Dominator Receiver and the same SpiroNet CP antenna. Wow, lots of technical gear. I’ve tested this system out with fantastic results. I get crystal clear video in a 700 meter radius and it only starts getting fuzzy when I get out to 1 kilometer+. I can even fly behind smaller trees without too much interference. I’m about to start testing directional antennas to see what kind of improved range I can get without sacrificing convenience.
If you want a very inexpensive introduction to FPV, the cheap stuff will work. But if you are serious about the hobby it’s worth investing in some nice radios — they’re not much more expensive!
3. LCD Monitor VS FatShark Goggles?
After using an LCD monitor for several months and then switching to Goggles, I feel that goggles are the only way to a *real* FPV experience. Monitors get bleached out by sunlight and are not truly immersive. With goggles I can fly on a bright and sunny day in no shade with ease. I’ve been using the FatShark Dominators for over 6 months, and I love them dearly.
Get a pair of FatShark goggles and never look back.